A Hill to Die On: My Campaign for an Amphitheatre at Edinburgh Castle
Though I was a student at the University of Edinburgh from 2013 to 2017, I had never experienced a full Edinburgh summer until 2024, having moved back from the Highlands the previous October. Consequently, it was my first time truly appreciating just how much the Military Tattoo’s temporary grandstand impacts the Castle’s Esplanade and the city skyline.
On my walk to work through Bruntsfield Links, I could see the cranes arrive and the scaffolding slowly take shape, and later witness the same in reverse: a cycle spanning almost half the year.
Then, in 2025, having watched the assembly a second time with increased disbelief that we've put up with this disruption for decades, I was compelled to write a LinkedIn post, while at the Jolly Judge, to pose the question of a permanent structure. My small network of mostly healthcare technology professionals didn’t have much to say about it.
But in June 2026, things changed.
A friend was visiting from the States for a road trip and we had reached Edinburgh. I, of course, suggested we go to the Castle. This meant queueing on the Esplanade, surrounded by a metal cage, views obstructed.
Between my failed LinkedIn post and this visit, I had built a modest social media following. It occurred to me that I had the chance to relaunch the idea of an amphitheatre, so I filmed some footage for a voiceover and posted the video a few days later.
The response was huge. On balance, it was by far the most negative comment section I’ve had on the subject. I put this down to the initial shock of the idea. But in fairness, there were legitimate questions needing answered, which inspired me to keep exploring various aspects in subsequent posts. (To this day, I haven’t heard an unsolvable problem.)
Following this first video, I received a direct message from Jack Handscombe, an architectural stone carver and sculptor, telling me that he had explored and written about this very concept almost a decade prior. I was keen to hear his perspective, so I invited him for an interview by the Castle.
While we waited for the Esplanade to open (it’s closed from 5pm to 9:30am due to the temporary grandstand), we went for a stroll down the Royal Mile. Jack mentioned having seen a proposal to develop the Esplanade shared online by The Cockburn Association. Realising we were just steps away from their office, we knocked on their door and were kindly invited in.
They didn’t have anything about that particular proposal to hand, but they were able to show us some interesting documents regarding the temporary grandstand. To see the proposal, titled Edinburgh Castle Visitor Reception Feasibility Study and produced by the Boys Jarvis Partnership in 1986, we had to visit the National Library of Scotland. It is a fascinating read, and I am grateful to have been granted an exemption to the no-filming rule.
James Garry from The Cockburn Association later invited me back after more documents relating to the Boys Jarvis proposal were found. It was during this second visit that I had an incredibly fortunate encounter with architect Benjamin Tindall, who happened to be there doing some research of his own.
Ben invited me to his office, located right by the Castle, to discuss the amphitheatre concept with his team. After a great conversation, he generously agreed to create some preliminary drawings to further the idea. Receiving those drawings in my inbox was a truly special moment.
Shortly after, I filmed an interview with Ben and Dan Wilkinson, and posting this was a game-changer. It’s clear that their design approach won people over: fully excavating the Esplanade to protect the Castle’s silhouette, using the excavated rock for the amphitheatre, and integrating access to its substructure from Princes Street Gardens and Johnston Terrace, to mention just a few of the wonderful details.
At this point in the campaign, I feel confident enough to say we’re winning the argument. The comment sections on my videos have become noticeably more positive; people have even written to say they were originally opposed but have since become supporters. The wheels are in motion for this amphitheatre to have a real chance of becoming a reality. I certainly won’t be giving up on it.
